ALSACE: WHITE HEAT

The charming wine village of Niedermorschwihr in the heart of Alsace AOC.

Wine & War (2002)
by Don & Petie Kladstrup

When we think of terroir we concentrate on geology, vineyard positioning, soil types and climates. Often overlooked are the political land disputes fought above the bedrock we spend most of our time studying. Alsace is one such wine region that has been shaped by centuries of conflicts as much as, if not more so, than traditional decisions made in the vineyards. Although there had been confrontations amongst competing empires, and a Germanic influence has always existed, the region had been French until the Franco-Prussian War of 1871 when neighboring Germany took control of the region and was not ceded back to France until the end of World War I. The region was once again claimed by Germany in the beginning of World War II and didn't return to France until the end of the war. The centuries long German influence remains in both the language and its architecture. It can also be seen on bottles to this day, both in their shape, labeling and the grape varieties used.

Alsace is located in the northeastern corner of France and shares its borders with Germany and Switzerland. It is France's smallest region, covering a narrow strip of land 75 miles long and 3 miles wide and one of the last wine growing areas to receive AOC status. The region is divided into 2 départements, the Bas-Rhin in the north, and the southern Haut-Rhin, where you'll find over two-third's of Alsace Grand Cru vineyards. The region itself occupies a north-south trending rift zone, which is a downdrop of the Earth's crust between the Vosges Mountain and the Black Forest. This unique rift along with its proximity to the majestic mountains, formed a rain shadow effect for vineyards, protecting them from rain carrying western winds, thus making Alsace one of the driest regions in France. The rift and its fault system along with erosion created an array of varying rock layers that form the region's diverse range of soil. While most viticultural areas have vines growing on just a few different layers of soil, Alsace has 13 major soil types: granite, gneiss, gypsum, limestone, loam, loess, marl, quartz, schist, sand, sandstone, slate, and volcanic. These exist either on their own or in combination. Unlike Burgundy or Bordeaux which has less grape diversity and a limited range of soils, Alsace takes full advantage of its complexity and highlights 7 major grape varieties. This range of terroir is best expressed in its white wines; making Alsace the only region in France to produce more white wine than red.



GRAPE VARIETALS

2015 Par Binner 
'Les Vins Pirouettes' Pinot Noir

It is estimated that there were over 100 grape varieties planted in Alsace in the mid 19th century. These varietals were often planted indiscriminately and mainly became blended white wine. Many factors contributed to the downsizing of the varietals. Like many other regions, the phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th century wiped out most of the vineyards. Those that weren't wiped out by the epidemic, were ripped out during the Franco-Prussian War or by German occupation in World War I, and especially in World War II. Aside from forced removal, trial and error by wine makers also helped narrow the varietals down to the ones that we enjoy today. Riesling, Pinot Gris, Muscat and Gewurztraminer are the most important grapes in the region, often referred to as the noble varietals. These 4 grapes are the only ones that are allowed in Alsace Grand Cru vineyards. Sylvaner, Auxerrois, Chasselas, Pinot Blanc (aka Klevner) are also widely planted and bottled as single varietal wines or used in blends. Pinot Noir is the only red and rosé wine made in the region.



ALSACE AOC

2014 Domaines Schlumberger
'Les Princes Abbés Pinot Gris

Alsace is somewhat of an oddity in the AOC classification system in that the grape variety is listed prominently on the label, a common practice used in German wines. The Alsace AOC was established in 1962. The laws allow for the grapes to come from any vineyard within Alsace and can be white, red or rose, dry or sweet, blend or single varietal. Wines with the grape variety listed on the label are comprised of 100% of the varietal. Geographical information, vineyard site or commune are also allowed to be indicated on the label. Many winemakers in recent years have been placing these lieu-dits on labels. Since no sites are permitted to label Premier Cru status wine, this is an alternative used to designate a higher quality bottling. By law, Alsace AOC wines are required to be bottled in German-like, long-neck shaped bottle known as flutes.



EDELZWICKER & GENTIL

2013 Valentin Zusslin Edelzwicker

If no grape variety is listed on the label, an Alsace wine may be a blend. Blends were actually the tradition in the region before single grape varietal bottling became the better selling norm. Edelzwicker or "noble mixture" are now synonymous with inexpensive blended wine. These wines have very relaxed rules. They are not required to list the vintage, or list any grapes or percentages used on labels. Gentil is a term used to indicate a superior quality blend. It require half of the cuvée to incorporate the noble grape varieties, while the remainder can be composed of any other Alsace AOC varietal. The price point is definitely not a marker for level of quality. Often times these blends highlight the alluring aromatics of Riesling, Gewurztraminer and/or Muscat and combine them with the mineral driven textures of Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, Auxerrois and/or Pinot Gris. A truly complete, ready to drink wine generally priced at $20 or under.

ALSACE GRAND CRU AOC




2001 Domaine Ernest Burn
Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Riesling

With the exception of Sylvaner and its historical importance in the Zotzenberg Grand Cru vineyard, only the 4 noble grapes are allowed to make single varietal Alsace Grand Cru wine. This AOC was created in 1975 and as of 2006 there are now 51 Alsace Grand Cru sites. Altenberg de Bergheim and Kaefferkopf Grand Cru are also notable exception since they are allowed to make blended Grand Cru wine with specific prescribed percentages of grapes. There are yield limits on the amount of wine that can be produced in any given Grand Cru as well as mandatory hand-harvesting. Minimum sugar levels are higher than Alsace AOC wines, with minimums of 11% abv for Riesling and Muscat, 12.5% for Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer with certain Grand Cru requiring higher amounts. Alsace Grand Cru does, indeed, highlight the regions unique terroir, but not without controversy. Although the applied labeling is far from the insignificance of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, by no means does it have the same rich history and gravitas as that of Burgundy Grand Cru. The rapid development, lack of Premier Cru level wines, and sheer amount of vineyards designated Alsace Grand Cru sites has been notably criticized by many Alsatian producers, with some choosing to not include their admissible Alsace Grand Cru AOC on their labels.



CRÉMANT D'ALSACE AOC

NV Clément Klur
Crémant d'Alsace Brut

Crémant d'Alsace was granted AOC status in 1976. Nearly 1/4 of the wine produced in Alsace is Crémant as it is immensely popular amongst French consumers. Much like all other French Crémant producers, the traditional champagne method of secondary fermentation must be employed. The wines must spend a minimum of 9 months on the lees, and the finished wines are made in either brut (very dry), sec (dry), or demi-sec (medium-dry) styles. All of the grapes permitted for Alsace AOC wines may be used, and although it is not permitted for still white wines, Chardonnay is allowed in Crémant d'Alsace AOC wines. Most of these wines are multi-varietal blends, but if it is a mono varietal sparkler, the grape is required to be identified on the label. The rules for sur-lie aging along with the aromatics and texture of Alsace's grapes create a complex toasty, nutty, flinty style not often found in other French Crémants.



VENDANGE TARDIVE & SÉLECTIONS DE GRAINS NOBLES

In the mid 80's, 2 designations for sugar levels were allowed to be included on labels to imply sweetness in both Alsace AOC and Alsace Grand Cru AOC wines. The term Vendange Tardive, or late harvest wines, was first coined in Alsace. The grapes are allowed to hang on the vine, and aren't picked until they begin to dehydrate, thus concentrating sugar contents to create a sweeter wine. Sélections de Grains Nobles is the sweeter of the 2 categories. The grapes used in this style have been affected by noble rot, aka botrytis. Only the 4 noble grapes may be used. The grapes have to be hand-harvested and there are minimum must weight requirements required at time of harvest.



WHITE LIGHT

White wines are the main output in Alsace and in the neighboring wines from the Baden region in Germany, less than 20 miles east. Their vineyards feature similar varietals yet the wines produced taste as if they were thousands of miles apart. Baden's Rieslings are lean and racy, Alsace's are opulent; Baden's Pinot Gris wines are often aged in new oak barrels, while Alsace's are aged in antique old barrels that prevent any wood flavors or oxidation, allowing for the musky. spicy qualities of the grape to come center stage. The preference is up to the consumer, yet the differences are quite clear. What also becomes apparent, despite the commonalities described, is that you are tasting French wine. White wines are excellent terroir storytellers and there are many chapters to be read in Alsace. Although wars, language and architecture have greatly influenced Alsace on the surface, the best light for your terroir reading can still be found underground.




PROVENCE: PURPLE REIGN

The sun setting over fields of lavender in Vaucluse.

With its rolling hills of lavender, tranquil coastlines, and scenic limestone mountain ridges, this quintessentially Mediterranean region has been inspiring artists for centuries. To the west in Arles is where Vincent Van Gogh's immortal works such as 'Bedroom in Arles'(1888),  'Café Terrace at Night (1888), and 'Starry Night Over The Rhône' (1889) were painted into the consciousness of the world. East of Arles are the mountain ranges that inspired Paul Cézanne's Mont-Saint-Victorie series of paintings, considered by connoisseurs as some of the most important works of Post Impressionism. Film artists from around the globe selected Cannes, a town along the eastern alpine border, to gather once a year to unveil their works. Past and present, it remains the most celebrated film festival in the world. 

The French Menu Cookbook
by Richard Olney (1970)

An artist of a different sort drew his inspiration from the lush fruits and vegetables produced by the year round sunshine and went on to create the concept of seasonal food menus; thus quietly revolutionizing the way we eat. It is in Provence, where an American expatriate, Richard Olney resided and penned his masterpiece "The French Menu Cookbook" (1970), now considered one of the most important culinary works of the 20th century and a foundational resource for cooks, such as Alice Waters who went on to highlight this farm to table approach in modern American cuisine with great success. His then revolutionary seasonal emphasis towards cooking and thoughtful wine/menu compositions drew visits to his home in Solliès-Toucas from the likes of Julia Child, M.F.K. Fisher, James Beard, Alice Waters and her friend Kermit Lynch, who at the time was a wine writer and small retailer. It was Richard Olney who introduced Lynch to the Peyraud family of Domaine Tempier who were in the middle of re-establishing the Bandol AOC, which went on to become one of the top rank vineyard sites in France. It is in part via these introductions that Provence began to be taken seriously as an important wine producing region and ceased being dismissed as simply a rosé producer.

Provence is located along the southeast coast of France. From north to south it is nearly 100 miles long with the Mediterranean sea running across its entire southern border. It is approximately 150 miles wide and is bordered by the Rhône River and Languedoc on the west and the Cote d'Azur and Italy on the east. It enjoys a warm Mediterranean climate with lots of sunshine, but some interior areas do experience an alpine and continental influence. The wines of Provence are heavily influenced by the cold, dry Mistral winds blowing from the north which help reduce humidity in the vineyards. Although there are a series of microclimates, generally speaking the vineyards are planted on 2 primary soil types: Calcareous limestone in the northern and western boundaries, and quartz rich schists named Crystalline in the east. Provence is to rosé as Champagne is to sparkling wine. It accounts for more than two thirds of the wines produced with its growers aiming to make mineral, terroir driven rosés rather than quaffable versions made from leftover juice. Although rosé reigns supreme,  the reds and whites also produce compelling wines of great expressiveness and finesse.  

LES BAUX DE PROVENCE AOC & COTEAUX D'AIX-EN-PROVENCE AOC

2016 Domaine Val de Caire
Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence Rosé

Les Baux de Provence is a relatively new AOC and somewhat of an anomaly. It produces twice as much red wine than it does rosé and virtually no whites. The reds are primarily Rhône varietal dominated, while the rosés are required to have a majority of Cinsault in the blend. This is the first AOC to require all vineyards to farm using biodynamic practices. Although the majority were already converted to organic viticulture, the rule was meant to deter chemical dispersion on neighboring vineyards and surrounding valleys by the powerful Mistral winds.

Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence is the 2nd largest Provençal appellation. Rosé accounts for over 80% of production and allows for the wines to have up to 20% white varietals. Typically the rosés using these varietals in this and other AOC's are labelled with an additional cuvée name although they are not required to do so. Again, the reds are primarily Rhône varietal blends and the small amount of white wine produced is required to have Rolle account for at least 50% of the cépage.

PALLETTE AOC

2012 Château Simone
Grand Cru de Provence Palette

This is the smallest AOC in Provence consisting of just over 100 acres of vineyards situated on both sides of the Arc river. There are only a few producers, the most well known being Château Simone which accounts for half of Pallette's total output, a virtual monopole of the AOC. Vineyards here, generally have a higher concentration of limestone, and enjoy a microclimate further protected by the winds thanks to the surrounding pine forests. It stands apart from the rest of Provence since it is a cool climate wine in a famously warm climate region. While red wines account for most of the area's production, both the reds and rosés must have at least half of any combination of Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre & Cinsault and up to 12 secondary varietals may be added. Pallette Blanc must have at least 55% Clairette Blanc, Clairette Rose, Picardin & Bourboulenc with up to 13 secondary varietals.

COTEAUX DE PIERREVERT AOC & COTEAUX VAROIS AOC

Established in 1998, Coteaux de Pierrevert is the newest Provençal AOC. The vineyards are situated in the Alpine foothills and produce distinctly more acid driven wines based on their higher elevation and cooler climate. They are somewhat of a rarity outside of the immediate region and are seldom exported. Primarily a rosé producing appellation, it too allows for up to 20% white grapes in their rosés. Grenache and Syrah dominate the reds, Rolle and/or Grenache Blanc steer the whites. 

Similarly, Coteaux Varois is also a cooler climate Alpine region that was also granted AOC status in the 90's. Nearly all of the wine produced is rosé and must contain at least 2 of the following: Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Carignane. 

CASSIS AOC

2015 Domaine Du Bagnol Cassis

Cassis and winemaking go as far back as 600 BC when the Phoceaens introduced Ugni Blanc to the region. It was amongst the first regions to be granted AOC status when the appellation system was created. This is the only AOC in Provence where white wine production exceeds all others. Here, the vineyards sit atop a higher concentration of limestone and depending on the site, can enjoy further cooling from the sea breeze in addition to the winds from the north. Stylistically, they are lighter and crisper than most other Provence whites. Phylloxera wiped out the Muscatel variety from the region, and it was replaced with Marsanne, which alongside Clairette are the majority of the varietals used in today's wines. Reds and Rosés are mainly blends of Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre, with 20% being the maximum of white grapes allowed in its rosé. 

BANDOL AOC 

Clouds rolling in from the Meditteranean blocked by the mountains that protect the vines from strong northern winds.

The Peyraud family of Domaine Tempier was
instrumental in establishing the Bandol AOC in 1941

On the hills behind the fishing villages along the coast line is where the vineyards of Bandol are situated. Most of the vineyards face south towards the Mediterranean sea, and are planted behind mountain ranges that protect the vineyards from the strong winds from the north. The soils here differ significantly from the rest of Provence, consisting of chalk rich slopes, silicon and sandy marls. All conditions coincide to make a completely unique wine. Bandol produces unrivaled Mourvèdre. Despite the grape being of Spanish-Catalan descent (known as Monastrell or Mataró), it is in this region where the most cellar worthy, upper echelon examples are produced. AOC laws require Bandol wines to have a minimum of 50% Mourvèdre with a maximum of 95%. The remaining blend may include Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and/or Carignan. Wines are also required to age at least 18 months in oak. Although the reds are arguably the star of the region, there is twice as much rosé produced. Quality rosés from Bandol will typically have a pronounced mineral rich weight to them, lengthy finish and the potential for long term aging. Mourvèdre minimums for rosés are set at 20% and not to exceed 95%, the remaining blend can contain Grenache, Cinsault, with small amounts of Syrah, Carignan, Bouboulenc, Clairette and Ugni Blanc allowed. The small amount of Bandol whites produced must be composed of 50% Clairette Blanche; the remaining grapes allowed are Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Rolle.

CÔTES DE PROVENCE AOC   

2014 Clos Cibonne 'Cru Classe'
Côtes de Provence Tibouren Rosé

Primarily situated in the east, the Côtes de Provence is by far the largest AOC in Provence. In general the vineyards reside on 5 major geographical areas: coastal, inland valleys, foothills, the Beausset Basin east of Marseille and the Sainte-Victorie Mountain. Of the 85 communes covered under the AOC, there are 4 geographical designations that can add their names onto wine labels (Sainte-Victorie, Fréjus, La Londe, Pierrefeau). Three quarters of the wines produced are rosés, however they will appear darker in color than the rest of the region since 20% of the rosé must be blended from wine produced by saignée method. Reds and rosés must contain 2 of the following: Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Tibouren, Carignane, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. More freedom is allowed for the white wines as they may be made with any amount of Rolle, Ugni Blanc, Clairette and/or Sémillon.

BELLET AOC

2011 Clos Saint-Vincent 'Le Clos' Bellet

With some vines planted within the city of Nice, Bellet is technically the only urban AOC in France. Slightly larger than the Palette AOC, it sits near the border of Italy and boasts 2 indigenous red varietals: Braquet and Folle Noire (aka Jurançon Noir). Red wines may only use a combo of primarily Braquet and/or Folle Noire with the possible addition of Cinsault and Grenache. Rosé rules are similar to the reds, although they are allowed to use up to 40% white varietals. Red wine production slightly tops the whites, which are primarily made from Rolle, but may include Blanqueiron, Ugni Blanc, Mayorquin, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc, Chardonnay, Muscat à Petit Grains and/or Pignerol.

 DOMAINE DE TRÉVALLON

2005 Domaine de Trévallon
Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône

As is the case with other regions, Vin de Pays wines that exists outside of the AOC system should never be dismissed as inferior. These wines are where experimentation, innovation, and wines that drink outside the box can be found. In the case of Domaine de Trévallon, it's also where rebellion can reach a fever pitch. After studying old texts from the influential viticulturist Jules Guyot, it was determined that much of this area was dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon before phylloxera wiped out the plantings. Intent on respecting the land, winemaker Eloi Dürrbach began replanting Cabernet in the mid 1970's. These vines are planted on north facing slopes in the peaks of the Alpilles mountain range to deter sun exposure, and along with equal parts Syrah, the wines of Domaine de Trévallon drew major attention to the Beaux en Provence region. Fast forward to 1993, as the Beaux-en-Provence region was being granted an AOC status, the legislation called for a maximum of 20% Cabernet Sauvignon to be used in red wine production. Rather than comply, the estate continued to make a 50/50 Cab-Syrah blend and were forced into accepting the lesser table wine status. This is a case where the estate is more recognizable than the AOC. Trévallon wines are amongst the most prestigious in all of Provence, and have recently enjoyed a minor victory against the AOC when they were allowed to use the geographical identifier Alpilles IGP which you find on labels to this day.

THE COLOR PURPLE

In order to create purple, a painter must combine a strong warm color (red) with a strong cool color (blue), the color thus retains both warm and cool properties. I would apply this retention of warm and cool properties in describing the wines of Provence as well. Purple is a rare occurring color in nature, yet it is in abundance throughout the region. Perhaps it is that color that has allured and inspired so many. Whether it is through art, cooking or winemaking, Provence has that magical power of attraction. It is no surprise that this influential terroir can also be captured inside the bottle. Compared to other wine regions of similar class and quality, Provençal wines do not command extravagant prices and are more accessible to experience. Its wines simply exist to make sure your soul's alright. 

NATIVE WINE GRAPES OF ITALY

Native Wine Grapes Of Italy by Ian D'Agata
pictured alongside study aids.

After spending 13 years interviewing winemakers, walking vineyards, studying available research, chatting with the locals and tasting wines, Ian D’Agata has provided us with the most comprehensive compass for navigating the most difficult, but rewarding, wine country in the world: Italia!

The Native Wine Grapes Of Italy addresses over 500 different native Italian grape varieties and provides a clear account of each grape’s origin, growing regions, clones, how they're identified and classified; and more importantly, their taste profile alongside suggestions for the best available producers. Although the information is encyclopedic, D’Agata’s wit, personal stories, and local anecdotes make the seemingly daunting subject of enology approachable. 

2006 Le Rocche Del Gatto
Spigau Crociata Pigato

The first part of the book deals with ampelology (the art and science of grape identification) and the origins of Italy’s grape varieties. Thanks to 

modern DNA testing, varieties that were once believed to be different grapes are scientifically proven to be the same strands that have been given different names by locals...or have they? D’Agata writes: “Vermentino is actually Pigato. Wait a minute: no, Pigato is not Vermentino. After years debating the issue, researchers, wine experts and producers in Italy all agree to disagree on the subject...Being facetious, you might say that’s because the grapes are both Favorita. No, wait: they’re all Piccabon (a wrong attribution: we now know Piccabon is identical to Vernaccia di San Gimignano). And so the story goes on. And on.” Upon reading this, the famous last words to my favorite Roman Polanski movie came to mind: “Forget it, Jake. It’s Chinatown.”

The difficulties that arise in simply correctly naming an Italian grape variety are clearly expressed in the case of Vermentino. However, D’Agata goes on to detail how much more complex genomes are than were once thought. Although science has a number of benefits available to us in these times, it’s important to remember that we’re not drinking science. Pigato/Vermentino/Favorita may not be proven at this time to be different varieties, but what is known, is that the resulting wines do taste different. So what’s in a name?

2012 Tenuta Di Castellaro 'Bianco Pomice'
Malvasia Delle Lipari Blend.

Part two kicks off with the grape groups and families, which is the key to unlocking the mysteries of Italian wine. Case in point, the Greco group. The Greco Bianco variety from Calabria has been proven to be Malvasia di Lipari. D’Agata writes: “For locals and wine lovers everywhere, it’s still Greco Bianco, and when in Calabria, you’ll receive nothing but stern looks or condescending smiles should you refer to the variety by any other name.” To put this into perspective, as a native San Franciscan, I never called Candlestick Park, 3Com Park or Monster Park. It was always Candlestick Park, or The Stick; even though its original name was actually Harney Stadium.    

The rest of the book lists each variety from Abbuoto to Zibibbo. This is when the book becomes more of an essential tool. There are brief descriptors of origins, synonyms for each variety, taste profiles and recommended producers. Herein lies the true purpose of the book: Drink Italian Wine! With so many Italian grapes out there, enjoying the wines of these lesser known varieties and sharing them with friends is the real reward. As much as I love Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, discovering that I now also like Fumin, Ruchè, Vuillermin, Centesimino, and Coda di Volpe Bianca is as rewarding as enjoying an old bottle of Barolo. Armed with this book, going outside of your comfort zone and spending the money on an unknown variety doesn’t seem like much of a gamble at all.                        

Cin Cin!

Ian D’Agata is a Rome-based wine writer and educator  who writes regularly for Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar newsletter and for Decanter magazine. He is the Scientific Advisor of Vinitaly International and is now also Scientific Director of the Vinitaly International Academy, and is the author of The Ecco Guide To The Best Wines Of Italy. 

Hardcover, 640 Pages

ISBN: 9780520272262

University Of California Press

May 2014

$50.00

SKETCHES OF RIOJA

A sculpture from Dinastía Vivanco's wine museum in the village of Briones.

As wine consumers, we understand that wine can improve with age. Outstanding vintages, such as the current 2010 wines from Barolo, command higher than normal prices driven solely by their aging potential. Tracking down a properly aged wine can fetch hundreds or even thousands of dollars and are a bit of a gamble, since there's always the risks associated with improper storage. When it comes to wine, time is money. The wines from Rioja offer a rare opportunity to taste a fully evolved wine at a fraction of the cost. Current releases on the market can range between 3 to 38 years old and because they have been cellared by the winemaker's themselves, the odds of opening up a bottle of vinegar for your guests are significantly lower. Although there are other remarkable wine producing regions within the country; Rioja and its majestic wines are Spain in a glass.      

LA RIOJA

The 3 regions of La Rioja

La Rioja is divided into 3 regions: La Rioja Alta to the west, La Rioja Alavesa to the east and north, and La Rioja Baja to the south. The Ebro River and its tributaries run through all of the 7 wine growing valleys. Highly fertile alluvial and ferrous clay soils are found throughout the entire region, while a higher concentration of calcareous clay and limestone soils can be found in the Alavesa and Rioja Alta. La Rioja lies in between 2 varied climatic influences. Its close proximity to the Bay of Biscay to the north is responsible for the cooler Atlantic winds, while the warmer Mediterranean air currents come in from the east. This delicate balance of climatic conditions directly translates to the vineyards and the quality of the wines can vary greatly depending on the vintage. La Rioja is dominated by interlocking mountain ranges, which play a vital role, not only in soil composition and vineyard orientation, but in protecting the vineyards from potentially damaging winds. The Sierra de la Demanda and Cantabrian mountains shield the Alavesa and Rioja Alta from the cold Atlantic gusts, while the Yerga mountains prevent the warm Mediterranean winds from overwhelming the Rioja Baja.

 

1999 R. López De Herdia
Viña Tondonia Reserva Viura

2010 Viña Ijalba Graciano

There are a total of nearly 158,000 acres of vineyards in La Rioja, of which there are just over 10,000 acres dedicated to white grapes. 7 grape varieties account for nearly all of the wines produced. Although it is the most important and widely planted varietal in Spain, Tempranillo is at its best in La Rioja and its stylistic range is exemplified in the diversity of terroirs in the 3 regions. Although there are single varietal examples, Mazuelo (aka Carignan), Garnacha, and Graciano are mainly used as blending agents to compliment the Tempranillo based red blends. Viura takes center stage for the white wines of Rioja while Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca act as the supporting cast. 4 other indigenous varieties, the red Maturana Tinta, and the whites Maturana Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, and Turruntés may be used. To a lesser extent, the international varietals Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Verdejo are also cultivated.

BARREL AGING DESIGNATIONS

1978 R. López De Heredia
Viña Bosconia Gran Reserva

The Rioja Regulatory Control Board requires producers to display a color coded aging category label on their bottles. Regardless of the label, all of the wines begin their aging process in 60 gallon oak casks, traditionally in American barrels, though some wineries use French or a combination of both. The amount of time spent in barrels and in bottle before being released to consumers will determine the style of wine produced. Though minimum aging requirements are set by the control board, the great majority of producers surpass these minimums and adhere to their Bodegas' own aging standards. Cosecha's are the youngest of the lot and spend less than a year in oak and less than a year in bottle. They are meant to be consumed young and are generally fruity and simple. Crianza wines are at least 2 years of age when they are released, with a minimum 1 year in oak for the reds, 6 months for the whites and rosés. Red wines labeled Reserva must spend at least 1 year in oak and 2 years in bottle, while the white and rosé wines spend at least 6 months in oak and 18 months in bottle. This is designed to mute the fruitiness of the wines to allow different flavors and textures to develop. They are already evolved upon release, and are built for further cellaring if desired. The minimums for Gran Reservas are 2 years in oak casks and 3 years in bottle for the reds, 1 year in oak and 3 years in bottle for whites and rosés. These wines are complex, elegant and despite the minimums, are usually held at least a decade before they leave the winery. Gran Reserva's are the best that Rioja has to offer and most bodegas only produce these wines in exceptional vintages. As you may have already guessed, with so much freedom for aging potential, the quality of each of these categories of wines depends heavily on the reputation of the individual bodega and where they source from.

LA RIOJA ALTA

1998 Bodegas Riojanas
Monte Real Gran Reserva

2000 Marqués de Murrieta
Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva

Out of the 3 regions, the largest amount of vineyards can be found in La Rioja Alta. Thanks to a greater diversity of microclimates, elevation, and soil types, the most prized vineyards and best producers come from this region. The region lies higher up towards the headwaters of the Ebro River and most of the vineyards can be found on its left bank. Influenced by the Atlantic, the Oja Valley and its high elevation encompasses the municipalities of Briñas, Briones, Haro and Villalba de Rioja. Depending on its proximity to the river, the vineyards sit atop of chalky clay and alluvial soils. This is the area where the most iconic producers of Reserva and Gran Reserva's are found. Among them are: R. López de Heredia, Bodegas Muga, La Rioja Alta, CVNE, and Bodegas Bilbainas. The middle section of Rioja Alta also has a rich tradition of producing quality wines. The vineyards surrounding the municipalities of Cenicero and Fuenmayor are also dominated by alluvial and clay soils, but with a bit of a warm and drier Mediterranean influence. Bodegas Riojanas, Marqués de Cáceres, and LAN are among its best producers. Logroño is the largest city in Rioja and serves as its capital. It is the southernmost municipality in La Rioja Alta and is much more influenced by its warm Mediterranean climate than the rest of the region. Marqués de Murrieta and Marqués de Vargas have been making outstanding fuller bodied offerings for over 150 years.

LA RIOJA ALAVESA

2005 Bodegas García de Olano
Mauleón Reserva

The Alavesa is the smallest of the 3 regions both in size and in wine production. The regional identity is Riojan, however, due to its proximity to its northern neighbor, there is a strong Basque connection. The area lies on the right bank of the Ebro River and despite its protection by the Toloño and Cantabrian Mountain ranges, it's far more susceptible to the cold climate and rain from the Atlantic Ocean. Vineyards sit on limestone and calcareous clay soils, which are reflected in the lighter bodied and more mineral driven character of Alavesa wines. Most of the wines are single varietal examples of Tempranillo, which tend to be fruitier and brighter in color than other Riojas, though this is not only due to the cooler climate and terroir. The Alavesa has a long history of employing the carbonic maceration fermentation method popularized by the fruity Gamay wines of the French Beaujolais region. Marqués de Riscal, and Bodegas Faustino are among the oldest and most reliable producers of the region, but it's the wines of newcomers, such as the Bodegas Hermanos Peciña, that are drawing a new generation of consumers and are building on the Alavesa's already sturdy reputation for high quality Riojan expressions.

LA RIOJA BAJA

2009 Baron De Ley
Reserva

The vines in the Baja are planted between 980 to 2,300 feet above sea level, making them the highest elevation vineyards of Rioja. It is the largest of the 3 regions and produces nearly as much wine as the Rioja Alta. With so much terrain, the soil content varies throughout the region, though most of it is either alluvial or iron rich clay. La Rioja Baja, on average, receives less rainfall than the other regions and experiences higher temperatures thanks to its strong Mediterranean influence. These factors cause its Tempranillo vines to ripen in a manner that produces richer styles of wine. Producers of Rioja Baja wines are not nearly as celebrated as the other 2 regions, however wines produced by young winemakers like Bodegas Lacus/Olivier Rivière, and Palacios Remondo, operated by famed Priorat producer Álvaro Palacios, are leading the way towards elevating the status of La Rioja Baja.   

1978

As cheesy as it is, I'm not ashamed to admit that I've purchased a birth year bottle. For some reason, last year it was important for me to enjoy a wine on my birthday whose grapes were hand harvested on the same year that I was, technically, hand harvested. My only experience with aged wine at the time was with La Rioja. I had tried several producers whose wines had been aged for nearly 20 years, were extremely complex, and enjoyed beyond its mere $40 price tag. So when it was time to purchase my birth year wine, I was comfortable paying more for what I imagined would be, a bottled experience. It was indeed. Since then, I've had the good fortune to try old vintages from various wine growing regions and can confidently say that aged wines will either be well versed storytellers or cranky "get off my lawn" philistines. Age doesn't automatically translate to wisdom, but the bottle I listened to that night did. And for the record, wisdom tastes delicious. 

WINELINGUAL

Message in an uncorked bottle

The song begins with a 5-part harmony in Bb with the lyrics questioning whether life is real or simply a fantasy. The piano vamp and bass guitar shift the track to Bb Major at which point the singer confesses to killing a man and is accepting the fact that he's thrown his life away, the point is musically emphasized by brief modulations to Eb Major by the bass line which adds further despair to the gravity of the situation. It is at this point that the drums come in and continue the Bb Major vamp culminating in a guitar solo played in Eb Major. As the solo comes to a close, the entire band descends and abruptly cuts out into the new key of A Major, which is where the Opera section of the song begins. This operatic portion leads into the hard rock segment of the composition, which ends in a brilliant mixolydian scale in Bb with brief progressions into Eb Major and ending in a seamless transition to C Minor. It reverts back to Eb Major and then abruptly changes to F Major just before it ends with the lines "Any way the wind blows" which has been widely interpreted as the bohemian stance on identity.

Queen "Bohemian Rhapsody" 1975

I apologize for making you read that introduction and I'm fully aware that I've massacred a rock masterpiece by solely describing its musical blueprints. The fact is that I've been playing music since I was 6 years old and have a fundamental understanding of the mathematics behind song structure. But, who cares? I doubt that simply describing the fundamentals will make anyone want to revisit the song. Nor do I believe that describing my emotional response to it would help much either, but it is definitely more relatable. I can wax poetic about how amazing Bohemian Rhapsody is for as long as I have an audience, but nothing I say or write will ever measure up to you hearing it for yourself. Your response to it will be your own, and the best I can hope for is to turn you on to it and hopefully you'll be moved by it as much as I have been throughout my life. And if you don't like it, that's cool too, although you're kind of a soul-less idiot if you don't. Anyway, this is the same conundrum I experience when I attempt to describe wines for this blog. Although I haven't been drinking wine since I was 6 years old, I definitely consider myself an experienced wino and am continuing professional certification on the subject, but once again, who cares? I can't help but feel like I'm explaining the key of a song when I'm describing what the wine smells like, or how epic the solo is when I'm detailing the acid to tannin ratio. "Nothing really matters" indeed!

MUSICOPHILIA

The healing power of music

I can't help but hear music all the time and though it might sound strange, certain wines will remind me of a song. The idea doesn't seem so far fetched once I examine it further. Music and wine are both absorbed by our body, mind and spirit. Good wine, like a great song will stand out and eventually become a pleasant memory. The way music affects neural activity is a subject deeply explored by Oliver Sacks in his book Musicophilia: Tales of Music and the Brain. Sacks writes: "Every act of perception, is to some degree an act of creation, and every act of memory is to some degree an act of imagination." There's nothing passive about the act of listening to music and this idea is easily translatable to drinking wine. Both have the ability to birth an instant pleasant memory that will forever exist in my subconscious. I believe that it is because of these formations of pleasant neural pathways that they can easily become intertwined with music, film, art, or books. I've also noted that serious wine drinkers are usually vinyl heads, movie snobs, and/or book nerds. I can honestly say that I've had a Châteauneuf-du-Pape that made a Bobby Womack song pape into my head, an old Chinon that reminded me of a Red House Painters tune and a Priorat that made a Dio-era Black Sabbath song get stuck in my head for weeks. It's nice to know that there's a scientific name for that thing that happens when a glass of red wine unexpectedly conjures the voice of Ronnie James Dio.   

SYNESTHESIA

A Synesthetic wine label

Synesthesia is defined as a neurological phenomenon in which stimulation of one sensory or cognitive pathway leads to automatic, involuntary experiences in a second sensory or cognitive pathway. This definition makes it sound like a treatable illness you see in a pharmaceutical ad, but I believe it's a gift we all possess to some degree. In the book The Hidden Sense: Synesthesia In Art And Science, author Cretien Van Campen describes how some musicians see the colors of a note and suggests evidence of synesthesia in the works of Van Gogh, Kandinsky and in Nabokov's The Gift. As it pertains to wine, author Jamie Goode's book The Science Of Wine shows how the idea of a synaesthetic wine label has already been explored by Eyrie Vineyards in Oregon. Wine labels from Eyrie Vineyards describe the wines with colors and brushwork and were born out of the nauseating task of written wine descriptor notes. I'm glad that science has my back on the whole Dio thing, but there's something too clinical about these definitions. The emotional domino effect that can be triggered by an amazing wine or song can't be fully explained by science anymore than mind numbing descriptors. There's a feeling of connection to all things that takes place that I don't think words will ever capture.

"LANGUAGE IS WINE UPON THE LIPS"

-Virginia Woolf

2008 Domaine Fourrier Vielle Vignes
Gevrey-Chambertin

Conveying this feeling of a connection to all things via words becomes a seemingly impossible task. Charles Bukowski once said that writing is like attempting to swat a fly in the dark and I'm sure writers of any genre have felt this way at some point. And yet, that's the beauty of writing; as the audience we get to read those attempted swats at the fly and somehow become part of the process along the way. As it pertains to wine literature, sometimes there's a novel inside that bottle and you can't convey it with rating systems, comparisons to other vintages, or aroma descriptors. Personally, a song is the first thing that comes to mind since I can relate the texture of a wine to a musical genre. Perhaps I am a synesthete, but I'm not one to place much importance on labels. An overlooked factor that's not often cited in wine reviews is the final and most important component to the entire process of reading about and purchasing a wine: sharing. I take into consideration everything I know about a person before I bring a wine to dinner and it reminds me of the times I used to make mixtapes for friends (ya, I used to be that guy). My goal with those tapes is the same as the wines I write about or bring to a dinner, which is to simply expose someone to something they may enjoy. The best wine I ever had is my favorite because it was shared the night I fell in love. The mixtape I gave to the girl I had a crush on, worked.

Last night, I brought 2 bottles of wine to a double date. At the height of the table's inevitable complaining about jobs, I stopped and asked what they thought of the wine and why they liked it. Before long, we began discussing food pairings, why they worked, what other wines would pair well, other restaurants we wanted to check out and so forth. The negative conversation blossomed into positive talks about life in general and the 4 of us wished the night didn't have to end. Art is to be consumed, art can never be explained, art is powerful; whether it's in a bottle, a plate, a book, a song, or in the eyes of another.

   

     

READING BETWEEN THE VINES OF TRENTINO/ALTO ADIGE

"These mountains, whose peaks rise above the reign of the clouds are made up of different species of rocks...Their prolongation leads to the formation of sharp points, broken crests and jagged angles that characterize and indicate from afar mountains known as primitive." -Déodat de Dolomieu (1750-1801)

A breathtaking view of the vineyards in the Trentino/Alto Adige

The ground beneath geologist Déodat de Dolomieu's feet was illustrating a significant part of a major chapter in the Earth's history. His research of this unique and complex mountain range led to the discovery of a new mineral and subsequently some of the founding principles of Earth science were proposed here. This "pale mountain" as he described it was actually once at the bottom of a sea and is in fact an ancient coral reef. The Dolomites now bear his name and are recognized as a UNESCO world heritage site. The vines we'll be exploring are planted between the Dolomites and another equally impressive though dramatically different mountain chain.

The super continent of Pangea

The European Alps stretch roughly 750 miles across 8 different countries. The mountain range was formed as a result of plate tectonics as the Eurasian and African continents collided with one another during the breakup of the super continent of Pangea over 100 million years ago. There are 22 peaks that reach heights greater than 13,000 feet above sea level with Mont Blanc being the highest Alpine point (15,781 ft). Given the cold climate, the mountain tops are covered in snow and were once dominated by glaciers. There are currently conservation efforts in place to protect the oldest alpine glaciers, which have nearly all melted away as a result of global warming. Due to snow and glacial melting, fluvial deposits and moraine debris have settled into the soil found in the wine growing areas along the Adige river and its tributaries. Granite, slate and porphyry rocks are also present in the soil, as a result of early volcanic activity, as well as the magnesium rich limestone rocks aptly named Dolomite. The roots from the vines of the Trentino/Alto Adige draw their energy from these various soil types.   

Trentino/Alto Adige DOC zones

The Trentino/Alto Adige is the northernmost wine region of Italy sharing its border with Switzerland and Austria. It is nestled between the southern end of the European Alps and the Dolomites.  Its 32,000 acres of vineyards ranks 16th among Italy's 20 wine growing regions, however nearly 80% of the wines produced fall under the DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) appellation classification, which ranks it #1 in overall regional Italian DOC production. There are a total of 8 DOC's within this region and various subregions that we'll use to guide us through the wines. Although this is ski country and some vineyards are planted as high as 3,300 feet above sea level, there are plenty of diverse climate and soil variations throughout the region. As the name suggests it is comprised of 2 autonomous regions. The Alto Adige is also known as the South Tyrol or Südtirol. The majority of the population is of Austro-Bavarian descent and German is the more common language spoken here. But before we explore Italy's Germanic side, let's begin our hike in the southern alpine vineyards of Trentino.

TRENTINO DOC        

The Trentino DOC stretches across roughly 40 miles between the communes of Avio in the south up to Mezzocorono in the north. Most of its vines are planted in the valleys alongside the Adige river, which runs north to south, and its tributaries. The Trentino DOC refers to the entire region; there are also 4 DOC's within its borders along with an additional 2 DOC's that it shares with the Alto Adige region. Each of these DOC's exist to authorize the grapes used and to regulate the style of wines produced by the villages for their respective provinces. Although local varietals and blends can be found in Trentino, it is dominated by international varietals due to the large cooperatives and wine estates that own most of the vineyard plantings. These international varietals can be found in bottles of Trentino DOC wines that are simply titled Trentino Rosso for reds and Trentino Bianco for the whites. Trentino Rosso's are not restricted to the percentages of grape varieties used and are basically Bordeaux blends made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Carmenère and Merlot. Also, unrestricted are the Trentino Bianco's which blend Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon Blanc, Müller Thurgau, and Manzoni Bianco. Nosiola, Moscato Giallo are native white varieties; while Teroldego, Schiava, Moscato Rosa, Marzemino, Enantio, Casetta, and Lagrein make up the native reds. In order to find these varieties, a deeper trek within the Trentino DOC is in order.

VALDADIGE TERRA DEI FORTI DOC

The bible for Italian wine geeks

Coming in from the south, the Valdadige Terra Dei Forti DOC is the first DOC encountered in the Trentino region and is probably the worst area to attempt to understand the wines of the entire Trentino/Alto Adige. It allows for the production of mostly varietal wines. The white wines produced are standard bianco and higher alcohol superiore versions of Pinot Grigio. Red wines are either standard rosso or aged riserva versions of Enantio and Casetta. If you've never heard of these grapes, you're not alone. Here in the U.S., finding bottles of Enantio or Casetta, which was on the brink of extinction just 10 years ago, is no easy task.  Coming across more Pinot Grigio and discovering the existence of unicorn wines is not the most promising start towards understanding the wines of Trentino/Alto Adige DOC, but it is definitely a common hurdle when navigating through Italy's vineyards. This won't be the first time that obscure native grape varieties will be encountered in this region and up until the publication of the Native Wine Grapes Of Italy by Ian D'Agata in 2014, information about these grapes has been scarce at best. 

A GLASS OF RED WINE BEFORE GOING TO HELL

2012 de Tarczal Marzemino D'Isera

Before arriving in Trento DOC there are 3 regions encountered on the way out of the Valdadige Terra Dei Forti. The wines produced in Castel Beseno, Ziresi, and Isera are of a superior quality and are recognized as sub-regions of the all encompassing Trentino DOC. Castel Beseno produces wines made from the indigenous white varietal Moscato Giallo. Ziresi and Isera each produce superiore wines made from the native Marzemino grape. Marzemino wines reveal peppery, dark berried aromas, yet are more acid driven with dark hues and a light to medium body. Of these 2 subregions, it is the Marzemino produced from Isera that is the more renowned thanks in large part to the opera Don Giovanni. Mozart must've thought very highly of this wine, since he specifically wrote it into the final banquet scene of his opera. "Versa il vino! Eccellente Marzemino!" requested Don Giovanni just before his deliverance into hell.

TRENTO DOC     

NV Ferrari Brut Chardonnay

The capital of Trentino provides us with a refreshing break from tracking down obscure varietals and rewards us with a glass of bubbly for our troubles. The Trento DOC is sparkling wine territory and employs the Champagne method for its production. Some of the largest acres of Chardonnay vines in the Trentino/Alto Adige are planted within this DOC thanks to internationally popular estates like Ferrari, which is one of the largest producers of sparkling wines worldwide. It is highly regulated when it comes to grape production with strict rules in place for how the vines are planted, cultivated, pruned, and hand-harvested. Once produced, the wines must rest on their lees for a minimum of 15 months for non-vintage, 24 for vintage, and 36 for riserva bottles. The rules are looser when it comes to the percentage of grapes used in the blends, however the wines must only be made from Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Bianco.

TEROLDEGO ROTALIANO DOC & CASTELLER DOC

2011 Foradori Teroldego Rotaliano

The Teroldego Rotaliano DOC produces rosato and rosso wines from the Teroldego grape exclusively. There are minimum alcohol levels that must be achieved to meet superiore standards for labeling and aging requirements set for riserva wines.  As you would imagine, this is the DOC where the best examples of the Teroldego grape can be found. The soil types are sandy/gravelly with alluvial deposits scattered amongst the plain where the vines are planted. The color of these wines are usually dark purple with aromas of black fruits and tar. Normally, these traits are associated with tannin rich, fuller bodied wines; but this is not the case with Teroldego. The wines are acid forward with a very low tannin presence. They're light bodied and would benefit from being served at a slightly cooler temperature than most reds. Compensating for Trentino's lack of fuller bodied reds is the Casteller DOC. Wines labeled under this region must have a base of at least 50% Merlot with the remain half comprised of any combinations of Enantio, Schiava and/or Lagrein.

VIGNETTI DELLE DOLOMITI

2012 Castel Noarna Nosiola

2010 Foradori Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco

Although DOC's are helpful in finding quality wines from a region, you'll often find that they only tell part of the terroir story. Wines categorized under the IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) classification should never be overlooked and in some cases, the best examples of terroir expression come from wines labeled as such. Under the IGT Vignetti Delle Dolomiti (Dolomite Vineyards) there are excellent examples of the native grapes Teroldego, and Nosiola to be found along with Manzoni Bianco. Manzoni Bianco is one of those rare instances where genetic crossings have proven to be a success. It is the offspring of Riesling and Chardonnay and produces crisp, lightly aromatic floral wines on top of a medium body. While Manzoni Bianco has been adopted by the region and is growing in popularity, Nosiola is very much a native and one of the best storytellers of the entire Trentino/Alto Adige. A Nosiola wine is normally characterized by hazelnut aromas and a rich, waxy texture that sits on a light acid driven body. There's a slight effervescent quality at the end of its crisp mineral finish. In a region with fairly straight forward wines, Nosiola's are among the most complex. And speaking of complex, prepare for a tower of babel effect heading out of Trentino and into the higher altitude vineyards of the Alto Adige. Here, Moscato Giallo is called Goldenmuskateller, Schiava is now Vernatsch and the Alto Adige becomes the Südtirol.

ALTO ADIGE/SÜDTIROL DOC

While plate tectonics, volcanic activity, and erosion played their role in shaping the ground below; war, dictatorships, and geopolitics are responsible for shaping the land above. The Südtirol's Bavarian roots can be traced back to the Holy Roman Empire from the 8th century when it was a part of the Kingdom Of Germany. The Treaty of Paris of 1810 signed in the midst of the Napoleonic wars, resulted in a border division between the Austrian governed Südtirol, and the Trentino region controlled by Napoleon's Kingdom Of Italy. This border division lasted until Südtirol's annexation by Italy in the aftermath of World War I. Under the Mussolini dictatorship (1922-1943), the local German population underwent a program of Italianization and were banned from speaking their native language. German wasn't officially recognized again until the aftermath of World War II, which is also when the current border lines were drawn up along with the official Italian name for both regions: Trentino/Alto Adige.   

2013 Andreas Huber
Azienda Agricola Pacher Hof Sylvaner

The vineyards of the Alto Adige/Südtirol DOC stretch roughly 36 miles and are steeper than those of Trentino, ranging from 650-3,300 feet above sea level. Its high elevation and cool climate are ideal for the production of crisp white wines. The Germanic culture's love of rules and order are reflected in the fact that nearly all of the wines produced adhere to DOC law. As expected, the white varietals used are normally associated with Germany and Austria. These include Riesling, Sylvaner and the genetically crossed Müller Thurgau (Riesling/Madeleine Royale) and Kerner (Riesling/Vernatsch). Gewürztraminer is also grown and though it got its name from the town of Traminer located near the capital city of Bolzano, it is unclear if it is in fact native to the region. Südtirol bottles are labeled with the varietal name written in German and some may even specify the ripeness levels, which is a labeling rule not used anywhere else in Italy. International varietals such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are also widely planted as well as Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and Moscato Giallo.                     

2013 Gumphof Markus Prackwieser
  Südtiroler Vernatsch

2011 Weingut Niklas
Südtiroler Lagrein

Rosenmuskateller (Moscato Rosa), Vernatsch (Schiava), and Lagrein are the native red varietals found throughout the Südtirol. Rosenmuskateller wine is another bottle we can add to our growing unicorn wine cellar, however examples of Vernatsch and Lagrein from various producers are fairly easy to sample. Vernatsch wines can easily be mistaken for a rosé since they are incredibly light in color. They're basically white wines disguised as reds since they are light bodied, acid driven and virtually tannin free. Delicate aromas of strawberries, red roses and an occasional pepper note are normally associated with Vernatsch. Lagrein is mostly grown around the capital city of Bolzano. Due to the orientation of the vineyards and the unique microclimate, the grapes take in a lot of sunshine with temperatures hitting well over 100℉ in the summertime. Combined with its natural properties, Lagrein produces wines that are medium bodied with a more composed tannin structure. The fruit aromas are more on the jammier side and the wines are usually characterized by a slightly bitter aftertaste.

SNOWBLIND TASTING NOTES

If there were a single word I would use to describe the wines of Trentino/Alto Adige it would be: unpretentious. These are straightforward, high quality, honest wines that have an air of freshness, provided not only by the alpine winds, but by its unique melting pot of 2 vastly different cultures. Throughout its history, these 2 regions have been occupied together, been a part of separate empires, and currently coexist, all while not even speaking the same language. Yet, despite the differences, the Adige River has always been there, giving life to the vineyards of both the Trentino and Südtirol. And that's what it's all about really: finding more things we have in common with one another. At least that's my view from the top of these mountains.